Leonardo love

Saturday, 10 September 2011

Today is the first day of an exhibition we've been waiting for called "L'automobile di Leonardo". Alex has been pouring over the pamphlet that shows Leonardo da Vinci's plans for a car in 1478. Someone has gone along and made his 15th century dream a reality.

But, what is wonderful about today is that getting to the exhibition was not the goal. Just taking a walk in Viterbo was our intent, and happily we happened upon Leonardo and other gems whilst Eleni and Neil were at Eleni's classmate's birthday party.

Basically, jaunts with Alex are simple. You leave the apartment and just walk. If you need the map, you use it. Mostly, you don't; he's got a great sense of direction. Something he has not inherited from me.

So, we meandered.

Alex wanted me to take this photo of him in a medieval alleyway in the oldest part of the city, San Pellegrino. One of the things I love looking for in these passageways are the doors with cobwebs. If you stand very close to the door you can even smell the damp. What happened to their owners? How long have the apartments been abandoned? Do pigeons live in there as they do in the deserted building next to us?

We found our way to this church, the Church of Santa Maria Nuova, from the 11th century. Perhaps the oldest church in Viterbo even. Inside are some remnants of years past, both Etruscan and Roman ruins. Some sources mention that this church, like much in Viterbo including where our apartment is located, was bombed in WWII and so what we see here is the reconstruction.

Some gorgeous frescoes line the walls. The sign next to this one indicates that it is St. Jerome between Saint John the Baptist and Lawrence the donor from the 16th century. It is ascribed to Antonio del Massaro, il Pastura.

The photo doesn't do it justice, as it's hard to see the cave like features that suggest some sort of Stonehenge look. But, it was my favorite piece in the church. I didn't know much about St. Jerome when I took this photo, but when we got home I looked him up a book that was here in our apartment when we arrived called Saints Preserve Us: Everything You'll Need to Know about Every Saint You'll Ever Need. I'm not entirely sure how accurate this is (in fact, in this book much of Santa Rosa's story differs from the Viterbo version), but it works for a start and I cross referenced enough reliable sources to find some information that I'm sure I must have known in my earlier student of religious history days.

First off, I'm immediately drawn to the fact that he is named the patron saint of Librarians and Students! St. Jerome (4th century) is best known as the translator of the Bible from Hebrew and Greek into Latin. This honor makes him highly controversial in his own right, never mind some of the stories alluded to him in his day. But, the main reason he is here in Viterbo (and thanks to Lawrence the donor) is because he is also famous for removing a thorn from a lion's paw and therefore winning the lion's adoration. Since this city claims it's creation to Hercules (wearing his lion hide), then St. Jerome would probably be a comfortable saint to have by your side.

Here is the facade of the church, with a close up of an unknown individual over the doorway.

In 1266, the story is that St. Thomas Aquinas spoke from this pulpit on the exterior.

A few more twists and turns accompanied with expresso and gelato and we were at the main Piazza, Piazza del Plebiscito. We found the Leonardo exhibit by chance. We went into the one of the surrounding palazzos. Here is a photo I took of Via Cavour. The Santa Maria machine came down this road (the window I watched it from was about midway).

One of the wonderfully decorated rooms in this building which is now used as a public space. You can see Leonardo's exhibit here.

You may find me ridiculous, but let me indulge myself a bit further. I didn't plan this, but it actually comes together quite beautifully. Leonardo means "strong as the lion" and, of course, Leonardo da Vinci is not only famous for his inventions. He was also a gifted artist and one of his famous unfinished paintings is of St. Jerome!