Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Transportation experiment #2


August 31

Today Neil had to work (he's been working off and on the past week) and Alex, Eleni and I were invited back to Lake Bolsena for a day trip on the lake. The three of us braved the blue bus system successfully this time. Or, at least it seemed so at the start...

It took us almost an hour to get from Viterbo to Campodimonte. But, look at these faces! Thankfully, they forgot all about being homesick for a bit. We rented a boat with the friends we had visited last week and spent an hour and a half going around the lake.

This island has seven churches on it and once was a summer retreat for the Popes.

Hopping off the boat for swims here and there...


Eleni steering the boat!

A successful day out. We had lunch by the lake at a place called Purgatory. Caught the 3:30 blue bus back to Viterbo, but we got dropped off in a completely different spot. It took us an hour to walk home, but we made it. We're learning...

Alex's tour o' Viterbo


Sunday, August 28

Today our friends were here and we had a chance to show off the town we live in despite the fact that we still don't know that much about it. Thankfully, they are good-hearted friends who trustingly let Alex direct them through the streets (and patiently put up with my complaints and hatred for being outside in the middle of the day (a vampire?)).
I'm sure much will be added to our knowledge of Viterbo along the way, but here is a good place to jump in. This is one of Alex's favorite features: the towers. Today there are only 40 towers left, but at one point there were 197. Initially, their purpose was defensive, but they lost that purpose and became homes and today, more of a status symbol. This one, the Tower of Borgognone, is actually a B&B now!

Across the way from this tower is the Church of St. Sylvester which was built in 1080. Again, this is the quick tour. I have not collected any worthy stories yet...

Some Etruscan ruins found under the building opposite the Cathedral.

The Cathedral connected to the Papal Palace.

The Papal Palace. Viterbo was home to Pope Alexander IV (1254-1261).

Thus concludes the Alex tour.

Back in our apartment, Alex gets a backgammon lesson in return for his tour guide talent.


"I'm allergic to Italy"

August 27

This was Alex's strategy today.

I know culture shock goes in stages: 1. Honeymoon period of euphoria, 2. Homesick, frustration, negativity, 3. Retreat into self and own culture, 4. Moderation/balance, and then 5. Reverse culture shock (on return).

Alex delighted in #1 and now I think he is stuck on 2 and 3. I'm not sure where Eleni is right now and I don't think Neil and I have the luxury of analyzing ourselves.

Anyway, in honor of the 'keep moving forward' and distraction strategy, we went back to the free public hot sulphur baths today and that got some smiles from our young friends. Here are the baths from a distance.

And here we are up close.

And, we've been here for 11 days - this is the first cloud sighting we've had!


Indiana Eleni

Friday, August 26

Tarquinia. Neil drove us 40 miles westward today to the ancient Etruscan city of Tarquinia. There was so much to see; much like most areas we've explored you see history overlapping history with Etruscan, Roman, Medieval, and Renaissance ruins.

We started out on the necropolis, where over 6,000 tombs have been found. We probably visited a total of twenty, but what fun we had doing that! You descend down these spooky staircases and then press a button for the light to show you the frescoes in the tombs. Super exciting for intrepid adventurers, as demonstrated by Eleni here.

This tomb was decorated in the 3rd century BC, before the Romans took over the town. It shows a huge winged Caronte, much like the Greek Charon, with snake like hair here on the wall. The Etruscans would have their sarcophagus here, along with other treasures to take into the afterlife. Some tombs that had holes in the walls where tomb robbers had crept in, too. For a certain six-year-old, it was all very Scooby Doo-ish.

Archeologists have interpreted this same tomb showing Vanth, the Goddesses of the dead (on the right) with her torch lighting the way to Hades. Carone is on the throne to the left along with two other family members who had died before.


While Neil, Eleni and I were scurrying from tomb to tomb, Alex was happily playing the entomologist. You can see how the tombs are protected in this photo, as well.

The men are depicted in red and the women in white. Men were tanned from being out in the sun and women were inside the homes? One theory.

An hour of dehydration and fifteen minutes in the car later, we were at the Mediterranean. We put up our umbrella and tried to fit in with the others.

Yes, Alex and Eleni are in the water in the background there, but really I took this photo with the hopes that that island you can barely see in the background to the right is Elba island. It matched up on the map, but I'm not certain and I'm highly suspect. I'm in the middle of reading War and Peace right now, and I think my imagination would happily have that as Napoleon's prison.

We had a picnic at the seaside and hours of swimming and collecting driftwood and rocks. When we were all all sufficiently covered in the black sand, we got back in the car and went into the town of Tarquinia to visit the museum.

What a treat! We saw the treasures that had been in the tombs. Bribed with gelato later, Eleni and Alex were helpful in finding Cerberus, griffins, angels, lions, and jaguar decorations.



I was taken by the ancient glass and jewelry.

Two expressos and two gelatos later, we were on our way home.

And, thankfully, we had some guests from home visit. We had a lovely evening at the local pizzeria around the corner from our apartment. Look at this boy's face when he was given an American dollar! He's back in the game (for a bit).


homesick sit-in

Thursday, August 25

It hit. Alex is the most easy going member of our family and not much gets him down. So today, when he was miserable and missing home, homesickness hit us all. Alex even staged a sit-in in his room by barricading the door and claiming that he was not leaving his room until we promised to leave Italy.

This lasted an hour. A long hour.

Eleni even tried to help lift his spirits.

We finally coaxed him out for lunch.

"I'm not leaving the apartment."

When homesickness hits, you have to go with it a bit, don't you? But then, you also have to keep moving forward, right? That became the itinerary for today.

So, we moped around in the AM and all the way through siesta.

But, when 4 PM hit and we were all stir crazy, the apartment doors flew open and we were on our way. We didn't have an exact plan, but we were on our way. The road led us to Tuscania, and old Etruscan city that was taken over by the Romans around 300 BC. The Medieval walls and Church of San Pietro, which you can see on the left below, are 8th century.





In 1971, and earthquake hit the town and many of the buildings were destroyed. This church, San Pietro, was beautifully reconstructed. I wish I could have take photos inside; the mosaic floors were so intricate.

Alex loved this piece of random rubble, "look, a pigeon!" Our life is so full of pigeons and pigeon sounds right now (they wake us up every morning), but I was willing to get excited by anything that Alex was interested in. If this helps homesickness, then I'm all over pigeon art.


And, of course, these photos had to happen:


The light...


It was a long emotional day, but it ended well. We found some Roman or Medieval (haven't researched this bit yet, but I do know the ruins are not modern!) bath ruins outside of Viterbo. We walked along the wall and dipped our feet in the hot sulphur and water. Alex was pretty psyched about this and it helped bring him back to Italy (for the moment).




"Can I get a pet goose?"

Wednesday, August 24

Right. I kid you not. This is the question that ruled the day. Alex fell in love with these geese in Capodimonte.

Let me set the scene. Around 20 miles north of Viterbo is Lake Bolsena, which is another volcanic formed lake in northern Lazio. Capodimonte is on the northwestern edge of the Lake. We were invited to have lunch with one of Alex and Eleni's future schoolmates that we had emailed last spring with questions about the school. Their schoolmate, Joey, lives near the northern edge of the lake.

So, we set off in the early AM so we could stop in Capodimonte and pick up a dessert for our hosts. Alex and Eleni wanted to live in this bakery shop - the smells were amazing!

We settled in by the shore with some cookies.


Then set off to our lunch date. We had a great afternoon hanging out - looking at their view of Lake Bolsena from their home and eating fresh figs. I'm crazy about figs. Fresh figs off the tree...even crazier.

The kids had a great time playing with their new friend. A big plus for the day, but a big let down once we left. On our way home, we stopped in another lakeside down, Marta, for dinner and the depression starting settling in - foreshadowing the intense homesickness that would hit the next day. But for now, we're still moving forward...

Here is out view heading into Viterbo.


This is one of the northern gates to the center of Viterbo. The wall that surrounds our new home is 5 kilometers.

Oh, and just so you know. We did not go home with a pet goose.

Stumbled Upon

August 23

More of the same, just a different spot on the same lake. We were on our own in this little cove for three hours. While this seems wonderfully romantic, there was the nagging thought, "Why aren't there any Italians here, too?" This deserted beach seemed the perfect spot...or was it?

Maybe it was just perfect for us. Us, the mud, and a bug-like fish they caught that kept them entertained.

Anyway...we had a lovely afternoon and then got in the rental car and drove to a town three miles away from Lake Vico called Caprarola. Here we are with our mini-car.


This is what we stumbled upon (I love the website stumbleupon.com - it takes your interests and finds websites that might interest you. Much like Italy. Interests: history, art, literature, architecture, etc. Stumbleupon might have placed us exactly where we were just now.)

We walked to the front of this building and simultaneously wowed. It's called Palazzo Farnese - just one of the country houses of the Farnese family, known for their banking connections. They were quite wealthy and, as this "country house" will demonstrate, they wanted their guests to know of their wealth and that consequent power that goes along with it.



I took this picture from a photo within the palace. It helps set the scene a bit and might give you a good sense of what we were about to see (the palace is the pentagon).


The palace was built and decorated from 1559-1575. I've never seen anything like it - there are detailed frescoes covering every inch of the walls and ceilings and mosaics covered the floors. It is just outrageous - it made our heads spin (or at least our necks ache from looking in every direction).


The photos just don't do it justice either. Each room had a different theme, as the Farnese family demonstrated their connections with Hercules (yes, Hercules - remember the creation of Lake Vico from yesterday?), various Popes, and Renaissance leaders of Europe that they did business with.




The map room had paintings of the world as the Renaissance knew it. Above you can see constellations.


And, a grotto outside to top it all off!


We really did stumble upon this. No prior preparation, guide book, or friendly recommendation. Serendipity at its best!