Democracy (for us) at its best

Saturday, October 15th

Our friends left earlier in the week. I was bracing myself for the onslaught of "I want to go home!" But, nothing happened. Instead of our visitors from home reviving homesickness, Alex and Eleni (and me) actually may have been cured by their presence. It was surprisingly affirming for Alex and Eleni to walk around Viterbo and show off their favorite pizza and gelato places. And, while they never said it outright, I think they were a bit pleased with themselves. Something like that. Of course, when I write these entries, I have the power to dramatize, minimize, and pseudo analyze things, don't I?! Keep that in mind as I discuss democracy...

We knew we wanted to travel somewhere today, but like any perfect day, we did not have a plan. There were six nominations: 1. the baths, 2. seaside, 3. take a walk, 4. eat gelato, 5. nothing, 6. see random ruins. When we did the approval voting (seriously), the seaside, gelato and random ruins won (the latter only squeezed its way in because adults' votes are worth more...? Somewhat democratic? We're trying our best to get some random ruins in, right? That is partly why we are here...).

So, we got in the car and headed west towards the Mediterranean. But, in order to satisfy the adults' random ruins clause, we stopped at an Archeological Park, Vulci.

The northern wind was blowing so strongly this morning, I thought we might take off. We headed up the small hill which hides the Etruscan ruins. I know I have a bad track record: I thought Tarquinia was the best Etruscan site, then Cerveteri. I was wrong again. Within minutes I was in love with this place.

I think the reason I enjoyed this place the best was the fact that we were able to see where the Etruscans lived and worked, not just where they were buried. I often wonder about that. Will people hundreds of years be more fascinated with our cemeteries than our homes? Here are Alex and Eleni at the Western Wall.

This is the drawing of what it looked like in the 3rd century BC.

Eleni's hair is a good wind directional. It shows how strong the wind was.

Some pieces of pottery?

We walked along the road, through the Arch that goes back to the 1st century BC and then past the Forum.

We spent a lot of time exploring two homes, the House of the Fisherman and the House of the Basins. There were no guards around, and only one other couple, so we really had the place to ourselves. It was such a thrill letting the kids loose on an ancient house. What might these be used for?

What is this cat guarding?

What are these columns holding up the floor here for?

Who is making that growling sound from underneath?

Neil found the secret passage to the underworld. Alex and Eleni quickly followed and then they all gave me a tour of the chambers below complete with cistern and huge food pantry.

Exciting to see this ancient rival to Christianity, the cult of Mithraeum.

We walked past the Temple of Hercules, and then the road opened up to this area near the river, which was the Vulci's harbor area. Here they loaded their boats full of beautiful Etruscan artwork and here they brought back imports from as far away as Greece and Egypt.

Close by was a reconstructed kiln and

several bovines.
We had a little picnic next to the cows and the river. Alex found some cool rocks and artifacts and proclaimed his complete love for this site and for Italy! We headed up over the hill and through the North Gate back to our car and some gelato.

Before we left, we visited this 12th century castle houses the Vulci Etruscan museum. The bridge was the main attraction for the kids though. The legend is that the Devil built it in one night; it's referred to as the Devil's Bridge.

A growing favorite of mine: Buccheri pottery.

So, the random ruins visit was a success. Democracy in the form of a more weighted Electoral college worked out; everyone got what they wanted in the end.

Soon we were on our way to the seaside.We finally got there around 3 PM. Not a thing going on and such riptides, that we didn't even wade. A lovely chance to do nothing.

We spent an hour here, digging our way back to the USA.

We had to complete the list, of course. On our way home to Viterbo, we stopped in at the baths. An oxymoron to end our day. Warmth while you are in the sulphuric baths, and then the 45 degrees plus northern wind chill when you are out!